We set today aside as one to just wander. In the Centro Storico, after a walk up the
historic Via Gulia, we again passed through the Campo dei Fiori and Piazza
Navona en route to the church of San Luigi dei Francesi, the French church in
Rome and home to three masterworks heralding the life of St. Matthew by
Caravaggio. Finding the bustle of the
busy Via del Corso too much like the real world, we ventured off onto
pedestrian-only side streets lined with shops and shoppers until we reached the
famous Via Condotti. There, the flagship
stores of Valentino, Gucci, Prada, Hermes and more vie for attention with the
Spanish Steps looming at the head of the street. (Mary
Ellen was looking for a purse and almost picked up the one in the photo, a
screaming deal for only 1500 Euro. Well, it is canvas.)
The Piazza di Spagna was, as always, choked with
pedestrians, police, horse-drawn carriages, and street vendors selling
roses. The Spanish Steps were
uncharacteristically empty, as preparations for a World Wildlife Federation
program were in progress. We found
refuge from the crowds on the quiet, pedestrian-only Via Margutta. Just a few blocks long, this street, historic home to artists and other creative
types, is lined with quiet hotels, homes, galleries and shops – a quiet haven
just steps from the urban frenzy of a Saturday afternoon in Rome.
Ubiquitous posters had alerted us to the fact that there was
to be a large rally this afternoon for (and organized by) Silvio Berlusconi at
Piazza del Popolo. When we arrived,
shortly after noon, preparations were in full swing and, as supporters gathered,
there were tables set up giving out banners, large Italian flags, campaign
buttons, baseball caps, water bottles and all manner of propaganda. This was no shoestring operation! We gathered some useful loot, but only one of
us was willing to actually display any of it; some of us do have our
standards, after all! We did have a
quick visit to our intended destination, Santa Maria del Popolo, but left the
area well in advance of the rally; there was no way we could have withstood the
deafening music or endorsed this political effort. We’re happy to have new hats and water
bottles, though I’m having the devil of a time trying to remove the Berlusconi
sticker from my pristine white baseball cap!!
From the profane to the sacred… After lunch alongside a fountain in front of
Richard Meier’s museum housing the Ara Pacis (Altar of Peace), we walked to St.
Peter’s Square and Basilica. As ever,
the experience of being in these grand spaces, indoor and outdoor,
overwhelms. There isn’t much more to be
said.
Our last walk was up the Janiculum Hill for the walk from
Vatican City to Trastevere. The Viale di
Gianicolo is a bit of a climb, but it affords a wonderful panorama of the city
spread out at our feet, some lovely views of the dome of St. Peter’s, and a
shady, green walk. Atop the hill at the
Piazzale di Garibaldi, there was a Ferrari rally, with lots of snazzy, mostly
red, low-slung cars to drool over, if that’s your thing. Near the end of the walk, we found a shortcut
path which brought us within a block of our apartment.
Happy hour at home was followed by one of the best meals
we’ve ever eaten. I almost hesitate to
write that we had eggplant, beans and sausage, because that in no way conveys
the fantastically wonderful flavors of what we ate. We were in a no-frills, white marble-topped
table place that was chock full and overflowing into the street with people who
knew a good thing. We give a grateful
tip of the hat (one of Silvio’s!) to our nephew Jamie McMullin for his
recommendation of Ai Marmi -- fantistico!
And things got even better from there. We were walking through the Saturday Night
Live streets of Trastevere and, when we arrived at the Piazza Santa Maria di
Trastevere, found that people were making their way into the church. We joined them and found that a Palm Sunday
vigil Mass was just beginning. Instead
of palms, the congregation waved olive branches as they sang for the solemn
processional, which included ranks of red-robed priests, an officiating bishop,
and incense rising. Though we’ve
forgotten more Italian than we ever learned, the words of the Gospel were
familiar enough for us to keep pace.
This is a city of churches, at least one on every piazza, more scattered
between piazzas; they seem as numerous as crosswalks! After darting in and out of so many of them
this week, marveling at their scale, and absorbing the magnificence of their
works of art, it’s easy to view them as sights to see or artistic venues. So, it
was such a blessing for us to happen upon tonight’s Mass. Santa Maria di Trastevere is glorious, the
golden mosaics are jaw-droppingly beautiful, but the point of all this really
is what was going on at the altar and the devotion of the faithful who packed
the pews; we need to keep sight of that.
And, with that, I think I’d
better read the Gospel in English before tomorrow morning’s Mass in St. Peter’s
Square!
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